Holidays, house guests and travel!

I know it's a stupid cliché, but where has the time gone!!! I honestly CANNOT believe two months have passed since my last blog entry! And now I must write about all that has happened, which is admittedly a little daunting! At least this way, only the truly noteworthy things will make the cut!

December marked my 2^nd month in Korea and as promised in my contract, I spent 5 days at a training retreat in a historic town called Gyeongju. Initially I saw very little of the town because for the first two days, all 300 teachers were on lock-down in the hotel. We were specifically asked to “not leave unless given special permission.” I honestly felt like I was at summer camp again with the rebellious kids [adults in their 20s-40s] sneaking out while the rest of us made our own fun running about the hotel. Finally on the third day, EPIK (English Program in Korea) took us on a tour of the city. Geongju is one of the most popular tourist destinations in South Korea because for nearly 1000 years it had the distinguished title of capital city during the ancient (and most prosperous) Silla Kingdom. It still holds quite a few historic buildings and artifacts from the period and for this reason, Geongju is often referred to as “the museum without walls.”

The training itself was far more intense than I thought it would be! There were lectures from about 9AM until nearly 9PM, which is probably why all of the teachers made sure to enjoy their time outside of the classroom to the fullest capacity... Simply put, before my week in Geongju, I didn’t know 40 people could fit in one hotel room!

One nice aspect to the hotel arrangement was that everyone was paired with a teacher from a different area so as a result, many new friendships were formed… I had the interesting opportunity of making friends with two roommates! After signing in, I went over to the list of roommate pairings only to discover I would be with someone named Tyrone… “Hmmmm” I though “but, isn’t that a guy’s name?” Yep, sure enough, Tyrone the man sits next to me and we both bust out laughing! It was decided that because Koreans put their family name first, looking at my name they must have had a moment of confusion thinking that Lewis was my first name. When we went to sort it out with a Korean lady in charge, she became horribly embarrassed apologizing over and over again, exclaiming “Big mistake, big mistake!” Ha! We assured her it was no big deal! After things were straightened, I met my new roommate Olivia who ended up being awesome! Olivia I discovered, had lived in Busan two years earlier and had coincidentally taught at my same school! We had fun swapping tales of teaching Busan Jungang’s Middle School boys!

The Sunday following training, Kayla, Tori, and our new friend Olivia signed up for a class at the Hongbeopsa Buddhist Temple teaching the fine art of making Kimchi. The class ended up being a great experience! In the middle of the session, we were joined by a dapper, older Korean man who exclaimed that we were “an EXCELLENT Kimchi factory” and that he would call his wife immediately to tell her four foreigners were making Kimchi better than many locals! Amazingly, the whole class was free AND it included lunch. We decided to sit next to our new friend and during the meal he explained that was a principal in the area. We exchanged information deciding that a principal at another school in Busan (who speaks excellent English, an unusual trait for older Koreans) would be a good friend to have.

Christmas Eve was the Thursday following our most excellent Kimchi experience and proved to be a very eventful day for me! The day started with two classes where I had my students discuss (and by discuss, I mean shout out one word answers… always just happy to get participation!) the difference between New Years and Christmas in Korea verse the United States! Interestingly, the two holidays are opposite as Christmas in Korea is considered to be for friends and lovers while New Years is very much about the family. The school day ended early and all teachers and staff members were invited to an expensive Japanese restaurant for hue (raw fish). Though I had hardly said more than Anyong Haseyo to the Vice Principal, Mr. Hwang, he approached my desk as we all packed to leave for the restaurant and through charades, indicated that he wanted to drive me. I was surprised but happily accepted! Now, a little side story is that the night before, I had used Tori's toaster oven to bake chocolate chip cookies as a Christmas gift for my fellow English teachers. I had a very long pause as I decided whether or not to give any to the principal and vice.

Alison: “Tori, should I bother?”

Tori: “Have you ever really talked to them?”

Alison: “No, not really.”

Tori: “Well, then why would you?”

Alison: “Huh, yea, you're probably right.”

Well, once in Mr. Hwang's car, with a huge smile, he hands me my Christmas present, a box of rice pastries called 'Chanke'.

Alison says: “Thank you Mr. Hwang, what a nice present!”

Alison's thoughts “Daaaaaaaamn!”

The lunch was awesome and my education on food continued as I learned the names of many fish items. To name a just a few, I ate ga-ribi (clams), susato (rice pancakes), gul (oysters) and mawke (another sea oyster of sorts). All fish came in a rainbow of colors on huge platters in beautiful designs. After lunch, Mr. Hwang, who proved himself to speak much more English than I had originally thought, invited Mrs. Kim and I on a tour of the area. I gladly accepted (and Mrs. Kim a little less enthusiastically... though understandable so as I think she knew her role would be that of the translator). We loaded into his car and set off for Ulsan, a coastal city to Busan's north-east.

Mr. Hwang explained that he used to hold a political job so his understanding of Busan and its neighboring towns is extensive. The tour began at the Meogwanumsa Buddhist Temple where we took a quiet tour of the grounds. We came across two tenants who upon seeing us, motioned us over. The adults exchanged a few words before one of the attendants pulled from his pocket a handful of wild mushrooms. Mrs. Kim explained that he had just harvested them from the massive pines surrounding the temple and that “they are good for health.” We all happily took a couple, said our “Kamsahamnidas” and continued on our way. After the temple, Mr. Hwang drove us to a very large and tradition Korean home (called a Ki-wa-chi) This particular Ki wa chi (not sure on the spelling of this one) was built clear back in 1765 and still stood in remarkably good condition. We sat for a moment on the steps in the deserted courtyard taking in the relatively remote scenery. In his broken English, Mr. Hwang commented on the “peace” and “harmony” felt there. He observed that the man who built the home must have been very wise for choosing such a perfect location.

Continuing on, we visited the eastern most point of South Korea called Gonjulgot (again, not sure of the spelling on this), a traditional school along a river, and finally began the journey back to Busan. I should interject that Mr. Hwang had originally told me the tour would take an hour and a half… at this point we were pushing three hours!

But, I certainly wasn’t complaining! The route home followed a winding road which Mr. Hwang accurately observed as a “country road.” I agreed and told him the singer John Denver has a song about that. He gave me a sideways glance before, “Almost heaven, West Virginia, Blue Ridge Mountains, Shenandoah River… Country Road, take me home,” singing the entire song! He literally knew every word and what’s more, proved himself to have an amazing voice! This started a wave of singing (don’t worry, I just listened) where he moved from Denver to Simon and Garfunkel (his favorite band) before ending with a Joan Baez cassette tape. Near the school, he and Mrs. Kim began a conversation which Mrs. Kim finally translated. She explained that Mr. Hwang decided to give us both 6 days off from Christmas until English Camp. I honestly was so thrilled, there was a moment where I literally had to fight back tears! I think that the accumulation of the afternoon’s events had finally caught up to me in a wave of emotion! It was definitely an experience to be remembered.

After the lunch, I immediately headed to Tori's where we began to prepare things for a “tacky sweater” party we had planned. Basically, guests were instructed to wear the tackiest sweater they could find (Busan has a plethora... though most are worn quite seriously by the locals) as well as a white elephant gift. The whole evening was a huge success! Kayla won the “most amazing white elephant gift award” by wrapping up the kim chi she had made at the temple the weekend before!

Four days later, my friend Brian arrived from Hawaii! It was very much a surprise visit but ended up being quite fun!

The first day of his stay, we went to lunch at one of Tori's co-teachers house named Kim. We were joined by Tori (of course), Kim's friend (another of Tori's co workers and Kim's best friend) Mia, and Mia's boyfriend Carson. Carson interestingly is a German Engineer living in Busan during a two year contract during which time he builds ships.

Kim planned a GREAT Gim-bop (which is Korea's version of a sushi roll) making session where we learned how to properly fill and roll this hugely popular Korean side. What distinguishes Gim-bop from other rolls is a pickled radish called a danmuji. There is also usually a protein (either an egg, synthetic meat, or fake crab), cucumber, yellow radish, carrot, and any other delectable you might like. We all became master rollers by the end and enjoyed a massive spread of food! It was such a cool first experience for Brian I think because it showed him a typical Korean home and a very traditional Korean meal!

After lunch, we headed to the water and explored the International market, saw a birds eye view of the city from the Busan Tower and finally ended at the Jagalchi Fish Market. The following two days were dedicated to visiting temples and we even managed to go for a small hike behind my apartment before Brian, the O-towns and myself headed up to Seoul for New Years! We welcomed 2010 in style with Chinese food and a room PACKED with “waygooks” (foreigners).

The first day of 2010 was pretty much spent in recovery mode, but we did rally in the afternoon for a boat tour of the Han river. On the second, the four of us (sans Andrew) took a tour of the DMZ. It was unfortunately, somewhat disappointing but we were able to take a train (of sorts) down into the 3^rd Tunnel. The 3^rd Tunnel is one of four tunnels built by North Korea in the hopes of sneaking soldiers past the border (though they were never successful with their plan). We also visited the Freedom Bridge and a train station that runs a train between the two countries (there's even a picture of the Late President Bush endorsing the station as an attempt at unifying the two countries.) The tour ended with a great lunch and then it was back to Seoul. Brian was able to hang for an hour or so before he had to gather his things and catch the next subway for the airport. It was great having an old friend see and experience a bit of my new life in Korea! Thanks for visiting Brian!

The rest of us stayed another day before heading back on the 3^rd. Monday the 4^th was day one of English camp. I had 15 students who spoke decent (but by no means good) English which made my job easier. The set-up was a tag team effort between Mrs. Kim and I where we would alternate teaching the lessons. It gave me a taste of what my co-teachers go through during my lessons (i.e. complete boredom!) All in all, the week went smoothly. There was one student who was at the camp very much against his will and posed a problem when it came to participation. I tried my best to explain that he was “wasting his life” sitting there pouting, but that line of approach doesn't really work with 15 year old boys I discovered.

That Saturday, Jeremy arrived! His visit went so fast and was so jam packed with activity, even now as I write this, I still marvel at all we did and saw! He needed a day to recover from jet-lag so that Sunday was pretty mellow with a trip to a street market near my house for some essentials and then Korean BBQ that night with Olivia, Kayla, and Tori. Unfortunately that whole first week was English Camp, but luckily it ended at 11:30 which allowed me to get back to my apartment around 12:30. This in turn, allowed Jer to do some solo exploring around the city while I was at school. It must be said that even though he was on the move in the morning, Jer always had lunch prepared by the time I got back to the apartment! (Such a thoughtful house guest)!

On Monday after our lunch, Jer and I visited Haedong Yonggungsa (the seaside cliff I mentioned earlier in my blog). We were somewhat limited on time however because Mi Sook (the teacher who had me over for pizza and chicken back in December) invited Jer and I over for traditional Korean food with her family at 5PM giving us little time at the temple.

The dinner ended up being amazing! The entire family really took to Jer and were all VERY impressed when they learned he was a pilot. After a brief discussion with themselves, Mi Sook's kids (her daughter Seung hee and son Seung O) both wanted to know if he had flown himself to Korea! At the end of the meal, Mi Sook's husband ran to his study and brought back a baseball which he instructed everyone to sign. At first I was a little confused, but soon realized that the ball was for Jer and I as a sort of remembrance gift. An interesting but very thoughtful gift ... one that probably wont ever be duplicated!

Tuesday after school, I ran into Mi Sook on my way to the bus stop. She INSISTED that she drive me home. I was happy for the invite as it was uncharacteristically cold that day. In the car Mi Sook got quite serious turning to me saying “You should catch Jeremy, Alison.” I couldn't help but to laugh! “I'm serious!” she exclaimed, “He has a good character, a handsome face, and a good body!” Ha! Oh Mi Sook... I am glad she approves though! Once at my apartment, Jer greeted us with a great spread and the three of us had a nice time sharing tea, finger snack and stories.

After our meal we visited the Gukje (international) Market which has an insane array of every imaginable item from oreos to pig's heads. After loosing ourselves in its maze of booths and carts, we headed for a tea shop en route to the Busan Tower. The tower is a perfect introduction as it offeres a birds eye view of the city and is especially great to visit at night when the buildings are ablaze with neon color.

The final stop for the evening was the Jagalchi Market which is a massive warehouse (though very modern and beautiful from the outside) which houses row upon row of 50 gallon tanks holding layers of fish, sea worms, urchines, sea cucumbers etc. (You'll even find a shark head from time to time thrown haphazardly on the cement floor.) After taking a thorough gander at our fish choices, Jer and I chose two fine looking specimens to be our dinner (a flounder and an unknown). After we payed the fisherman for his catch, we were led upstairs and seated at a table to wait for a Korean woman to cook our fish. The building was PACKED with people doing just the same however, as I wondered about, I noticed that most chose to eat their fish raw... makes sense considering the fish is just about as fresh as you could ever hope it to be. We were happy with our choice however, and enjoyed an amazing meal!

The following day (Thursday), Jer and I set off for the Geomjeong Fortress where little villages outside its walls serve fresh goat meat. We indeed found a restaurant where a goat was tied up (seemed like a good sign) so after a brief charade exchange with a server, found ourselves seated in a private room with BBQd goat sizzling in front of us. After our succulent meal, we continued on to Beomeo-sa (a very large and famous Buddhist temple just to the north of Geomjeong Fortress). It had taken some time to navigate the many trails inside the fortress walls, so we didn't get to Beomeo-sa until 5:30 or so. Because most visitors had gone home for the day, there was a tranquil calm at the temple not easy to find in Busan. After touring the grounds, we turned to head home.

An old Korean man started gesturing to us, indicating that we were NOT to walk through the main courtyard. This confused me until I noticed two men standing at a large brass gong at the courtyard's entrance with sticks in hand. Jer and I decided to wait it out to see what might come of it. Precisely at 6, in alternating fashion, they started playing the gong and didn't stop until exactly 6:10. It really was SUCH a cool experience! After the performance (of sorts) Jer and I turned to leave, but before heading down a long flight of stairs to the exit, I noticed a large group of monks coming up behind us so we stepped aside to let them pass. As they filed past, the thought occurred to me that we might be trespassing past visiting hours and could therefore not be welcome. However, just as I was thinking this, one of the monks turned to us saying in a friendly manner, “hey, where are you from?!” Ha! This was certainly not expected, but relieving just the same! I've since talked to a Korean friend about this and he assured me visitors are always welcome and there was nothing to worry about in being at Beomeo-sa as late as we were.

Friday marked the last full day of Jer's visit (or so I thought... more to come on this later) as his flight was scheduled to leave from Seoul Saturday afternoon. After camp, we set off for the Taejongde Cliffs. Unfortunately we weren't able to walk down on the cliffs themselves because a camera crew was filming a scene there. It was pretty entertaining to watch however, as a young couple dramatically held each other with the camera making a 360 degree circle around them as they kissed! Ha! I would LOVE to see which Korean movie/soap opera this scene ends up in! On our way down, Jer and I suddenly found ourselves in a throng of adoring fans. We quickly realized that we just happened to be leaving at the same time as the film crew and the Korean spectators (mainly girls) were all using this opportunity to get close to the actors!

On the walk down from the cliffs, the sky was ablaze with an orange glow from the setting sun. Because the cliffs are on a wooded hill, we had to wait for an opening in the trees to get a proper view of the sunset. Initially, we were both left a little dumbfounded for a moment... the sun was indeed setting, but in a crescent form. We finally realized that we were witnessing what couldn't be anything but a solar eclipse! Sure enough, back at my apartment, we did a quick google search and found the confirmation we needed on NASA's website. It was a great ending to a great week!

Long story short, after seeing Jer off at the KTX speed train to Seoul on Saturday, I got an e mail later that afternoon saying because he had flown with a buddy pass, he wasn't able to make the booked flight. After trying again on Sunday (with no luck), Jer decided the best (and most cost effective) option was to return to Busan and wait for the next available flight the following Friday. Though it was an unfortunate delay, I certainly wasn't complaining!

The following week was equally busy but considering the length of this blog already, I'm going to gloss over it a bit. One noteworthy event happened that Tuesday with a trip to the famous Haeundae Beach (the Waikiki of Korea). From a sea-side trail we were exploring, Jer noticed three little turtles swimming in the water near the rocky shore. I (of course) got incredibly excited as wild life, like serene temples, is hard to come by in this city. Making a quick scramble down to the water and after closer inspection, Jer concluded that they couldn't possibly be sea turtles. I know nothing about turtles however, but had to trust his judgment and after watching them get hammered on the rocks decided that regardless, they certainly didn't belong at Haeundae.

On two occasions, I attempted to grab the turtles from the water, but no sooner than I had a turtle in hand,one of two middle aged Korean women (both missing a few teeth if that paints any sort of picture) would snatch the turtle away from me. They would then walk back to the waters edge, do a little dance of sorts and then chuck the creature back in. There was a man standing near-by and seeing my confusion, approached with his cell phone with “the release of captive animals into the wild,” typed on its screen. Instead of this persuading me to leave well enough alone (which I'm sure was the man's hope), it only fueled my resolve to relocate the turtles.

Luckily, the women finally decided to leave and I was able to grab two of the three turtles (by this point, one had already been swept too far from the shore). I had the grand idea that an aquarium nearby would HAVE to want the turtles. I mean, we had saved them from a terrible death and any marine animal lover would have to appreciate the gesture and want to help right... no, not really. The employees looked at Jer and I like we were crazy and although there was some discussion, in the end, we were given a firm no. The next move was a visit to the Information Center next door. The thought was, if they have information about hotels, restaurants and activities in the area... they MUST know what to do with lost pond turtles. The woman staffing the facility was actually incredibly helpful explaining that they were indeed freshwater animals but, many locals see the turtles as a nuisance as they eat small fish and fish eggs in the rivers. When we asked her what to do, she told us simply to “put them back in the ocean.” We thanked her for her help (knowing that that simply was not an option) and after inspecting the center's wall-sized map of Busan, found a river nearby. The happy ending to this story is that one short cab ride later, we were gently placing the turtles in a large, reasonably healthy looking river. Success!

That Friday, Jer and I woke early and after once again dropping him at the KTX train station, I met Tori and Andrew and the three of us set of for Busan's airport. We were flying to Thailand! A quick side note, Jer amazingly made his flight getting the last seat on the plane. An account of his 13 day stay in Korea can also be found on his website www.vwviaje.com if anyone is interested in a slightly different perspective (or if any part of my version of events doesn't make sense!)

Thailand will have to wait for the next blog entry... if nothing else, this is already waaaaay too long. Anyway, thanks for reading!